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Draining a Pool: When You Have To, and How It Goes Wrong

By Robert Henry

An empty pool can float out of the ground. When a partial drain is enough, when a full drain is genuinely needed, and the checks that come first.

By Robert Henry

Founder

5 min read
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The short answer

Almost every reason to drain is solved by a partial drain instead. A full drain risks the shell floating out of the ground on groundwater pressure, which is not repairable. If you genuinely need one, check the water table and the hydrostatic relief valve first, and get a professional opinion.

An empty pool can float out of the ground. When a partial drain is enough, when a full drain is genuinely needed, and the checks that come first.

Robert Henry, Founder5 min read
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A submersible pump sitting on the floor of a partly drained pool with its discharge hose running up over the coping
Water in the pool is what holds the pool down. Take it out and the ground pushes back.

The water in your pool is doing structural work. Twenty thousand gallons weighs somewhere around eighty tons, and that weight is what holds the shell down against whatever groundwater sits beneath it.

Take the water out and the equation reverses. Groundwater pressure that was comfortably balanced now has nothing pushing back, and a pool shell is essentially a large boat that has been sitting in a hole.

Key takeaways

  • The water in a pool is what holds it down against groundwater beneath it.
  • Partial drains fix dilution problems — stabilizer, calcium, salt — without the risk.
  • A floated shell is usually a total loss, not a repair.
  • Fiberglass and vinyl are most at risk. Gunite is heavier but not immune.
  • Never drain into a storm drain without checking local rules. Chlorinated water is regulated.

What "floating" actually means

A pool that lifts does not lift neatly. A fiberglass shell can rise several inches out of level, cracking plumbing as it goes. A vinyl pool's liner floats and the walls distort. A gunite pool is heavy enough to resist most of the time, and cracks rather than lifts when it does not.

None of these is a repair in any normal sense. A floated fiberglass shell is usually replaced, and the cost of that is close to the cost of a new pool.

It is also not rare enough to dismiss. It happens most often to people who drained a pool in spring, when the water table is highest, to fix a chemistry problem that a partial drain would have solved.

When draining a pool is actually necessary

Work out why you think you need to drain. In nearly every case it is a dilution problem — some number that only goes up, and cannot be removed by any chemical.

  • Cyanuric acid from years of tablets
  • Calcium hardness in a hard-water region
  • Salt, after repeated additions on a saltwater pool
  • Total dissolved solids generally, on very old water

Every one of those is fixed by replacing a proportion of the water. If your stabilizer is 120 ppm and you want 40, you replace roughly two thirds — but you do it as two partial drains with a refill between, not one drain to the floor.

The arithmetic is simple: the fraction of water you replace is the fraction by which the number drops. Nothing about it requires an empty pool.

When a full drain is genuinely needed

There are real cases. Replastering. A liner replacement. Major structural repair. Occasionally a contamination event that cannot be treated.

In those cases the job is done by someone who:

  • Checks the water table, often by digging a test hole beside the pool to see where water stands
  • Opens the hydrostatic relief valve in the pool floor, which lets groundwater in rather than lifting the shell
  • Picks the season — late summer in most climates, when the ground is driest
  • Refills immediately rather than leaving it empty across a weekend

That is not a list of precautions to take on your own. It is a description of why this is a professional job.

Doing a partial drain, practically

The arithmetic above is the easy half. This is the part people actually ask about.

Use a submersible pump rather than the filter's waste setting if you have one. A cheap submersible moves water faster, does not run your pool pump against a partly empty suction line, and lets you stop precisely by lifting it out. If you are using the multiport instead, watch the level constantly — losing prime on waste is how pump seals die.

Mark the target before you start. A piece of tape on the tile turns "about a third" into something you can see from the deck. Bear in mind that a third of the depth is not a third of the volume on a pool with a deep end, so work from volume rather than from the tape if the floor slopes.

Never go below the shallow-end floor, and stop well above it on vinyl. An exposed liner in the sun shrinks and hardens, and a shrunk liner does not go back.

Refill from the deep end with the hose resting on something clean rather than lying in dirt, and leave the pump running throughout so the fresh water mixes instead of layering.

Wait a full turnover before retesting. Numbers taken from partly mixed water are how people end up draining twice.

Above-ground pools are a different problem

None of the floating risk applies here. There is no shell to lift and no groundwater pushing up on anything, so a fully drained above-ground pool is not structurally at risk.

The risks are different and smaller. A vinyl liner left empty in the sun shrinks and hardens and may not stretch back when refilled, which is why an above-ground drain should be finished and refilled the same day, and ideally not in July. And the ground beneath the pool, once it is no longer carrying weight, is easily disturbed — walking on an empty liner over a sand base leaves footprints that stay there.

So drain one when you genuinely need to, refill promptly, and stay off the floor while it is empty.

Where the water goes

Worth settling before you start, because the answer is local and the penalties are not theoretical.

Chlorinated water is regulated in many jurisdictions, and discharging to a storm drain is frequently prohibited outright, because storm drains reach creeks and rivers untreated. Chlorine at pool concentrations kills fish.

Common permitted routes are a sanitary sewer cleanout, or irrigating your own ground after letting chlorine dissipate for a few days and testing that it has. Salt water complicates the second option, because salt does not dissipate and will kill planting.

A phone call to your water authority before you start is a five-minute job that occasionally saves a fine.

The practical version

For the ordinary case — diluting a number that has climbed — the whole job is:

  1. Work out what fraction needs replacing, and cap it at about a third per pass.
  2. Check where you are allowed to discharge.
  3. Pump down to your mark, keeping the level above the shallow-end floor.
  4. Refill, rebalance, retest.
  5. Repeat in a week if the number needs more.

Slower than one big drain, and it carries none of the risk that makes the big drain a decision rather than a chore.

Go deeperThe usual reason people drainStabilizer accumulates from tablets and only leaves by dilution. How much to replace, and when.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drain a pool completely?

Sometimes, and it is not a routine job. An empty shell has nothing resisting the groundwater pressure underneath it, and a pool can lift out of the ground — fiberglass and vinyl most easily, but gunite too where the water table is high. Full drains are done by people who check the water table first, open the hydrostatic relief valve, and pick a dry season.

How much water can I drain from my pool safely?

A third to a half is the usual working limit for a partial drain, and that is enough to solve most dilution problems. Dropping below the shallow end floor starts removing the weight that holds the structure down. If the arithmetic says you need more than half replaced, do it in two passes with a refill between rather than one deep drain.

What is a hydrostatic relief valve?

A one-way valve in the floor of many gunite pools that lets groundwater push up into the empty pool rather than lifting the whole shell. It is what makes a full drain survivable where the water table is high. It can also be seized shut after years of disuse, which is why anyone draining a pool properly checks it beforehand rather than assuming.

Where can I drain pool water to?

It depends entirely on where you live, and this is worth checking before you start rather than after a neighbor complains. Chlorinated water is regulated in many jurisdictions, and discharging to a storm drain is often prohibited because it reaches waterways untreated. Sanitary sewer cleanout is common where permitted. Dechlorinating first and irrigating is another option where the ground can take it.

Why does my pool need draining at all?

Almost always dilution — a number that only goes up and cannot be removed chemically. Cyanuric acid from years of tablets, calcium hardness in a hard-water region, salt after repeated additions, or total dissolved solids generally. Each of those is fixed by replacing a fraction of the water, which is a partial drain rather than an empty pool.

Published September 6, 2026. Spotted something out of date or wrong? Tell me and I will fix it — see the editorial policy.

Topics in this guide

About the author

Robert Henry

Founder

Over fifteen years on every side of the pool business — service routes, equipment repair and warranty work, new construction, and the test counter.

  • 15+ years in the pool industry
  • Residential service routes
  • Equipment repair and warranty work
  • Pool construction and installation
  • Pool retail and water testing
A hard white calcium crust banded along pool waterline tile, the deposit rough and uneven where it meets clear water
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