Jandy CV and CL

The CV and CL are Jandy's four-cartridge filters: a round two-piece tank held together by a clamp ring, with four pleated cartridges inside. They come in 340, 460 and 580 square feet, and the number is the area: a CV460 holds four 115 square foot cartridges. For a smaller pad, Jandy's one-cartridge filter is the CS, from 100 to 250 square feet.

The CV and the CL share almost every part, down to the cartridges, lid, manifold, clamp and gauge. What separates them is the bottom half of the tank.

CV or CL

• CV is the VersaPlumb version. Its inlet and outlet are at the same height on opposite sides of the tank, so it can sit in line between a Jandy pump on one side and a heater on the other. It comes with a sweep elbow for that connection and a drain cap, and its drain can be plumbed through a union and a ball valve.
• CL has its inlet and outlet on the same side, one above the other and 8 inches apart, and a drain plug.

The two tank bottoms are different parts, R0465400 for the CV and R0466500 for the CL. Everything else in the parts list is common to both.

If you are replacing a CV beside a Jandy pump, the manual wants at least 7½ inches between the center of the pump outlet and the filter's inlet bulkhead, to make room for the sweep elbow.

Size it by flow, then by headroom

Jandy's maximum flow ratings, from the 2025 sell sheet:

• 340 — 127 GPM
• 460 — 150 GPM
• 580 — 150 GPM

That works out to 0.37, 0.33 and 0.26 GPM per square foot. Past 460 square feet the flow stops rising, so a 580 doesn't handle a bigger pump. What it buys is more area to fill before it needs cleaning. The sizing guide works through pump flow against filter area. Separately, the manual's minimum for turnover is the pool's whole volume two to four times in 24 hours.

Before choosing a size, measure the height. The sell sheet gives the height you need from the pad to lift the cartridges out: 57 inches for the 41-inch 340 and 460, and 69 inches for the 47-inch 580. Under a low deck or a soffit, that is the number that decides.

Installing it

• Set it on a firm, level surface such as a concrete slab. Don't level it with sand, which washes away; the manual notes a filter system can weigh up to 800 pounds.
• Leave 6 inches of clearance around the filter so the clamp can be inspected, room above to lift the lid and cartridges, and keep electrical controls at least 5 feet away so you can stand clear at start-up.
• Up to 2½ feet above the pool's water level is fine without hurting the pump, with a check valve recommended on the suction line. Below water level, fit isolation valves on both lines.
• Jandy recommends 2-inch pipe at minimum. The unions go on dry and hand tight: no Teflon tape, no pipe dope, no glue or solvent on the coupling nuts. Lubricate o-rings with a silicone-based lubricant only.
• The gauge and air release screw into the lid, and their locknut is hand tight only.
• If local code requires a pressure test, keep the filter out of it. If it can't be, the manual limits the test to 35 psi, water no warmer than 100°F, and 24 hours.

The clamp closes to a gap, not a torque

Unlike Hayward's and Pentair's filters, Jandy gives no torque figure. With the o-ring seated in the lower half and the lid pressed down onto it, fit the clamp ring over both flanges, seat the T nut the right way round, and tighten with a 9/16-inch socket until the two halves touch or are within 1/16 inch.

Stop there. The manual warns that tightening it further can break the clamp, and if it won't close to that gap, it says not to run the filter at all. Check it again after the first week, then at least once a month.

Starting it

1. Pump off at the breaker.
2. Check the drain cap (CV) or plug (CL) is in and tight, and the clamp is seated.
3. Fill the pump basket with water to prime.
4. Open the air release fully by turning the knob on the back of the gauge counterclockwise. Don't take the knob off.
5. Open any isolation valves.
6. Stand at least 5 feet away and start the pump. Close the air release when a steady stream of water comes out.
7. Watch the gauge. If it approaches 50 psi with clean cartridges, turn the pump off.

Normal start-up pressure is 6 to 15 psi. Once the gauge settles, turn the bezel so the "clean" arrow lines up with the needle. When the needle reaches the "dirty" arrow, it is time to clean. That is 10 to 12 psi above the starting pressure.

Cleaning the cartridges

1. Pump off, breaker off, and open the air release fully so all the pressure is gone.
2. Below water level, close the isolation valves first.
3. Drain the tank, then put the drain plug or cap back.
4. Loosen the clamp and lift the lid straight up until it clears the cartridges.
5. Lift the manifold off the outlet tube, and pull the four cartridges.
6. Stand them upright and hose each pleat with a nozzle.
7. Hosing won't shift algae, suntan oil, calcium or body oils. For those, the manual says to soak in a degreaser, then a descaler.
8. Look for holes, tears or badly worn pleats, and replace any cartridge that has them.

Going back together, seat each cartridge on the support at the bottom of the tank. Check the o-ring on top of the outlet tube and the tank o-ring for cracks or wear, set the manifold squarely over the cartridges and outlet tube, then clamp and start it as above.

Don't clean the outside of the tank with solvents. Jandy says they damage the plastic; use mild detergent and water.

What the troubleshooting table says

• Dirt returns to the pool: a hole in a cartridge, a worn o-ring seal inside the filter, or a cracked manifold. All three are listed below.
• Short filter cycles: algae, water chemistry, a pump that exceeds the filter's design flow, or cleaning that didn't get the cartridges clean.
• High pressure at start-up: small return eyeball fittings, a partly closed return valve, a pump too large for the filter, or dirty cartridges.
• Low flow: dirty strainer baskets, suction-side air leaks, blocked lines or closed valves, dirty cartridges, low water, an unprimed pump or a blocked impeller.
• Water not clear: sanitizer or chemistry, heavy use, too little run time, a dirty filter, or a hole in a cartridge.

Winterizing

Turn off the pump and breakers, open the air release, and take out the drain plug so the tank empties. Store the plug and its seal somewhere safe, and leave it out until spring. Drain the piping, and cover the equipment with a tarp or plastic sheet.

Why there is no store link

Jandy's warranty doesn't apply to a filter bought online. It exempts only small valves, parts and accessories from that rule. From a dealer, the filter gets one year, parts only, with no labor, and only when it is installed by a licensed pool contractor where one is required. The warranty covers only the first owner and ends if the filter is moved.

When this page was checked, Amazon had aftermarket cartridges for these filters but no listing for the filters themselves. Buy the filter from a Jandy dealer.

Replacement cartridges are different. Jandy's online exclusion doesn't reach parts, so genuine Jandy cartridges bought online still get the 90 days Jandy gives purchased parts. Jandy's numbers are R0554500 for the 340, R0554600 for the 460 and R0357900 for the 580.

Where Jandy's documents disagree, or are unclear

• A section that isn't there. The cleaning instructions tell you to follow steps 1 through 8 of "Section 5.1". The manual's disassembly steps are Section 5, which has no subsections.
• Plug or cap. The start-up steps separate the CL's drain plug from the CV's drain cap. The disassembly and winterizing steps only ever say drain plug.
• The phone number. The troubleshooting page prints Jandy's technical support line as 1.800.822.793, a digit short. The rest of the manual gives 1.800.822.7933.
• One sweep elbow or several. The manual says the CV comes with a sweep elbow; the sell sheet says sweep elbow fittings. The manual's own figure shows two part numbers, SEFL1002 and SEAQL1001, and its parts list gives only SEFL1002.
• What cleans a cartridge. The description says soap and water. The cleaning section says a degreaser, then a descaler.