Jandy · Infinite WaterColors
Jandy Infinite WaterColors Niched LED Lights
Jandy's color LED for a standard niche: it fits some Pentair and Hayward niches, but runs only on its own controller and AquaLink RS rev Y or later.

The Infinite WaterColors niched light is Jandy's color LED for a standard wet niche: a 50 W pool light and a 25 W spa light, both in stainless steel. It isn't Jandy's older WaterColors with more colors. Unlike those, the lights talk to their controller digitally, and nothing but that controller will run them.
That decides the first question, which comes before the niche or the color. It needs a Jandy AquaLink RS at revision Y or later. On a Pentair or Hayward pad, or an older AquaLink, this is the wrong light.
It runs on one controller and one automation system
Jandy's light manual is plain about it: the lights won't operate from any other transformer. They take 14 volts from the IWCLC300W controller, a box with its own 300 W transformer. The controller then talks to the AquaLink RS over RS-485.
Three things follow from that.
- No wall switch. The controller manual says light zones are turned on and off only through the iAquaLink app. Jandy also has an Alexa skill for voice control.
- No relay. The controller has to be powered straight from a circuit breaker, and the manual says so twice. On a pad where the old light's transformer hangs off a relay on the automation, that circuit changes. Jandy's brochure puts the upside plainly: the lights stop using up an auxiliary relay.
- No dimmer. The lights dim in the app and don't work properly on dimming circuits, so the manual says to keep them off one.
Swapping into an existing AquaLink RS has one more step. The manual says to remove the old light's auxiliary names, color light labels and schedules from the system setup first.
It fits other brands' niches
This is the useful surprise. Jandy's manual lists the niches the light is ETL listed for, and they aren't all Jandy's:
- Jandy large niches: PLNICLRG, PLNICVFLRG, WT000002, SSNICLRG1R and SSNICLRG1S
- Jandy small niches: PLNICSM and SSNICSM
- Pentair: 620004, 78210200 through 78210700, 78210401 and the small 79206600
- Hayward: the DuraNiche, SP0600U
So a pool with a Pentair or Hayward light doesn't always need a new niche to take this one, as long as the niche is on the list and the pad runs an AquaLink RS. Check the niche's model number before ordering. The manual also says to make sure the niche is meant for the pool's water, fresh or salt.
How many lights one controller runs
The controller takes 120 volts at 2.75 A and puts out 14 volts, up to 300 W. Jandy caps the lights on it at 240 W combined. Its manual gives the counts for the smaller nicheless lights, 16 at 15 W or 9 at 25 W, but none for the niched ones.
By that limit, four 50 W pool lights fit on one controller, at 200 W, and a fifth would take it to 250. That's arithmetic from Jandy's figure, not a number Jandy prints.
An AquaLink RS runs up to four controllers, and the whole system has up to four zones, each with its own color. The starter kit, IWCPSKIT100, is one pool light, one spa light and the controller.
The wiring rules are stricter than an old light's
The controller manual ties its wiring rules to the lights' digital signal, which Jandy's older WaterColors don't use. The rules:
- 200 feet at most from the controller to the farthest light, all the cable combined
- 10 AWG stranded wire at least from the controller to the junction box, and 8 AWG on some longer runs over 120 W
- Low and line voltage in separate conduit. Where line power and the RS-485 cable share a raceway, use shielded Type TC cable
- No daisy-chained junction boxes. Wire each one back to the power source; chaining them causes communication losses
- A junction box once there are more than two lights
On an older pool, that can be where the job grows. A long run in light-gauge wire, or junction boxes chained together, may need rewiring before these lights will talk reliably.
The controller goes at least 8 inches above the water, 4 inches above the ground and 4 feet from the pool's edge, on a GFCI-protected circuit, bonded with 8 AWG solid copper.
Installing it in the niche
The top of the lens has to be at least 18 inches below the water. Leave 4 feet of cord coiled in the niche so the light can come out onto the deck with the pool full.
Use only the special pilot screw that comes with the light. It holds the light in the niche and grounds the housing, so no substitute will do.
Never run it more than 10 seconds out of the water, since it heats quickly. At the controller, the light's black and white wires each join one of the controller's orange wires, and the green ground goes to the ground bar.
When power comes on, the lights run a rainbow sequence, which can take up to two minutes. That's the sign they're powered and talking to the controller. A light that stays dark goes to the dead-light checks, then to the controller's status lights in the parts list below.
Colors, zones and dimming
There are 10 preset colors and 5 light shows, plus custom colors from a color wheel in the app, and a brightness slider for each zone. During zone setup, a selected light flashes the color of the zone it's in. The defaults are green, white, red and blue for zones 1 to 4.
Colors change directly rather than by cycling power. That's the difference from lights that sync by switching off and on in a pattern, which the LED conversion guide calls the most common complaint about color lights.
The warranty is one year, not three
Jandy's warranty gives nicheless lights three years, and that's the only light it names. A niched light like this one isn't among the exceptions, so as written it gets the standard one year. Neither the sell sheet nor the family brochure states a warranty term.
And as with all Jandy equipment, there's no warranty at all if it's bought online. If three years matters, Jandy's WaterColors nicheless lights carry it, though they thread into a 1½-inch wall fitting rather than a niche.
Parts
The light itself has one service part, the circuit board kit: R0979600 for the pool light and R0979700 for the spa light. Each comes with a new lens gasket, and Jandy says to fit a new one every time the light is opened.
The controller has four: the transformer R0979800, the board with its bracket R0979900, the lid R0980000 and a pack of screws R0980100.
The catalog says black, white and gray plastic face rings can be ordered, but gives no part numbers for them. A dealer can look those up from the light's model number.
Which model do you have?
The model number is on the light label. Everything else in the range is shared — these are the parts that change with it.
| Model | SKU | Light | Cord | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pool light, 100 ft cord | IWCP50W100 | Pool, 50 W | 100 ft | The 50 W pool light in a stainless-steel housing. The number on Jandy's product page. |
| Pool light, 200 ft cord | IWCP50W200 | Pool, 50 W | 200 ft | The same light on a 200 ft cord, the longest run Jandy's controller manual allows from controller to farthest light. |
| Spa light, 100 ft cord | IWCS25W100 | Spa, 25 W | 100 ft | The 25 W spa light, also stainless steel. |
| Spa light, 200 ft cord | IWCS25W200 | Spa, 25 W | 200 ft | |
| Pool and spa starter kit | IWCPSKIT100 | Pool and spa, 75 W together | 100 ft | One 50 W pool light and one 25 W spa light, both on 100 ft cords, with the IWCLC300W controller. |
Jandy Infinite WaterColors Niched LED Lights parts, and what goes wrong
Read off the manufacturer’s parts list and checked before it ships. Open a row for what a bad one actually does — or start from the symptom and work down, which is the cheaper order.
What is it doing?
Start with the controller's own lights. Jandy's manual says LED2 turns on red when the controller has power and LED1 flashes green while it's communicating. A blinking yellow light means the lights and the controller aren't communicating. On power-up, the lights run a rainbow sequence that can take up to two minutes, which shows they're powered and connected. If they don't, check the wiring against the manual's rules: no more than 200 ft from controller to farthest light, 10 AWG stranded wire at least, no daisy-chained junction boxes, and the controller fed straight from a breaker, never through a relay. The AquaLink RS has to be revision Y or later.
Live pricing arrives when the retailer programs are approved.
The circuit board inside the 50 W pool light, with a new lens gasket, a diverger, thermal paste, and three each of the flanged nuts, spring washers and star washers. Jandy's spare parts manual has the swap: power off at the breaker, loosen the eight screws on the back, and separate the housing from the lens. Paste goes on the back of the new board, the green ground goes to the stud marked Earth, white to N and black to L. Always fit the new gasket, since a reused one can let water in. Refit with the arrow on the lens facing up, and tighten the eight screws in a star pattern.
Live pricing arrives when the retailer programs are approved.
The same kit for the 25 W spa light, and the same job, with six screws on the back of the housing instead of eight. Turn off the controller's breaker before opening it, and fit the new lens gasket every time.
Live pricing arrives when the retailer programs are approved.
Jandy's spare parts manual covers the swap but gives no test to tell a failed transformer from a failed board, so confirm which with Jandy's support line before buying. The job: breaker off, lid off, unplug the white input harness, remove the transformer nut with a 14 mm wrench, and loosen the screws holding the blue output wires. The new one goes on in reverse, with its gasket and washers under the nut. The board with its bracket is R0979900.
Live pricing arrives when the retailer programs are approved.
One screw holds it. Jandy's manual says the cover screw grounds the lid and has to be in place, and that a controller with a missing seal or gasket, a ground lug that's missing or not bonded, or corrosion that lets weather in needs a new enclosure. Spare screws come ten to a pack as R0980100.
Live pricing arrives when the retailer programs are approved.
Jandy Infinite WaterColors Niched LED Lights manuals and documentation
Hosted by the manufacturer. These open on Jandy’s own servers, so they stay current.
- Pool and spa LED lights installation and operation manual (H0666700 Rev F, 2024)manual
- LED light controller installation and operation manual, with the wiring rules (H0669700 Rev K, 2025)manual
- Lighting system overview (H0808900 Rev C)spec
- Pool and spa light spare parts manual (H0805100)diagram
- Light controller spare parts manual (H0805200 Rev A)diagram
- Niched LED lights sell sheet (68348 SL, 2023)spec
- Infinite WaterColors family brochure (21286 SL, 2026)spec
- Infinite WaterColors niched LED lights product pagespec
- Fluidra 2026 product catalog, Infinite WaterColors specifications on page 175spec
- Jandy limited warranty (H0333803 Rev Y)spec
Jandy Infinite WaterColors Niched LED Lights warranty
1 year parts
Jandy's limited warranty (H0333803 Rev Y, still the one its support page links) gives nicheless underwater lights three years. A niched light isn't among the exceptions, so as written it gets the standard one year from retail purchase, and purchased replacement parts get ninety days. There's no warranty at all on a Jandy product bought through the Internet or an e-commerce platform, apart from small valves, parts and accessories. Installation and service have to be by a contractor licensed and qualified in pool equipment where a license is required. The controller manual adds that failing to bond the controller with 8 AWG solid copper may void the warranty.
Manufacturer’s termsJandy Infinite WaterColors Niched LED Lights complete parts list
Every part number the manufacturer lists for this equipment, from its own documents. Marked rows are the ones covered above with a symptom and a diagnosis.
| Part | Description | Note |
|---|---|---|
| IWCP50W100 | Pool LED light, RGBW, 50 W, 14 V, 100 ft cord, stainless steel | |
| IWCP50W200 | Pool LED light, RGBW, 50 W, 14 V, 200 ft cord, stainless steel | |
| IWCS25W100 | Spa LED light, RGBW, 25 W, 14 V, 100 ft cord, stainless steel | |
| IWCS25W200 | Spa LED light, RGBW, 25 W, 14 V, 200 ft cord, stainless steel | |
| IWCPSKIT100 | Starter kit: 50 W pool light and 25 W spa light on 100 ft cords, with the 300 W controller | |
| IWCLC300W | LED light controller with 300 W transformer what goes wrong | |
| R0979600 | Pool light PCBA kit: board, thermal paste, lens gasket, diverger, 3 flanged nuts, 3 spring washers, 3 star washers what goes wrong | |
| R0979700 | Spa light PCBA kit: board, thermal paste, lens gasket, diverger, 3 flanged nuts, 3 spring washers, 3 star washers what goes wrong | |
| R0979800 | Controller transformer replacement kit what goes wrong | |
| R0979900 | Controller PCBA with bracket, 2 screws | |
| R0980000 | Controller lid with foam and label, 1 screw what goes wrong | |
| R0980100 | Controller screws | Pack of 10 |