Hayward Booster Pump 300

The Booster Pump 300 is Hayward's pump for pressure-side cleaners: a small, single-speed pump that takes water from the filtration system and drives the cleaner. It comes as the HSP30060 from pool stores and the W36060 online. Both have a TEFC motor rated at 1.1 total horsepower, and run on 115 or 208 to 230 volts. The manual for Hayward's TracJet names this pump, or an equivalent, as the one to use.

The owner's manual Hayward links for both is the 2016 manual for the model 6060, which it replaced. Most of what follows comes from that manual, and where the newer pump differs, this page says so.

What it needs

• A pressure cleaner that needs a booster. Hayward says it suits all of them.
• At least 8 GPM from the filtration system. It isn't self-priming, so it relies on the filter pump for its water.
• Its own circuit wiring. The pump has to be permanently connected, on a GFCI, with no extension cord.
• An in-ground, permanently installed pool. Hayward's pumps aren't for storable pools.

Where it goes, and how it's plumbed

Placement. It's built for outdoors, but Hayward strongly advises shade. Pick a well-drained spot that won't flood, never a damp or unventilated one. Bolt it to a level concrete slab or other rigid base, with its inlet as close to the pool's water level as possible.

Pipe. Hayward recommends 1-1/2 inch pipe with the union fittings supplied. Use the 3/4 inch hose barb adapters when replacing a booster that was plumbed with flexible hose. Keep the suction line short and direct, with as few fittings as possible, and at least five pipe diameters of straight pipe before the pump inlet. Don't tee the inlet into the top of a horizontal pipe.

Below water level, put a ball valve between the booster and the filtration system so it can be serviced. Make sure any valves around it are open before it runs.

After a heater. Keep at least 3 feet of pipe between the heater and the booster's inlet. Never connect the inlet into the section of heat sink pipe coming straight out of the heater; Hayward says that can damage the pump and void its warranty.

With solar. Put a diverter valve or tee on the return line between the filter and the solar heater, so the booster keeps its water while the panels fill. Don't install it on a pipe that stops flowing when the solar is on, unless an override switch shuts the booster off while the panels purge air.

Wiring, and the timer

Match the supply to the motor's nameplate voltage, and keep the voltage at the motor within 10% of it. Ground and bond the pump. Hayward calls for solid copper bonding wire, No. 8 AWG or larger, to the pool structure.

Timer offsets. Hayward recommends a separate time clock for the booster, set so the cleaner starts at least half an hour after the filtration system and stops at least half an hour before it. If power to the clocks is interrupted, reset them. For the first 30 days, Hayward recommends a longer than normal cleaning cycle. An automation system does the same job; follow its maker's guide.

Starting and running it

1. Start the filtration pump first, and connect the cleaner. Hayward says not to run the booster without a pressure cleaner connected.
2. Open every valve at the booster's inlet and outlet, and set the filtration valves so they don't starve it.
3. Check for leaks. If there are any, turn everything off and wait for the water to stop before going near the equipment.
4. Stand at least 10 feet away and start the booster.

Never run it dry. Water cools and lubricates the shaft seal. Running dry can damage the seal and cause leaks and flooding, and it voids the warranty. When the filter pump has to go off, turn the booster off first.

Don't add chemicals just ahead of the pump's suction. Undiluted chemicals damage it, and that voids the warranty too.

Replacing an old booster with this one means resetting the cleaner's operating pressure by the cleaner maker's procedure. On a TracJet, that's the wheel speed.

Looking after it

The motor bearings and shaft seal are self-lubricating, so nothing needs oiling. Keep the motor clean and its air vents clear, and don't hose the motor off.

Winterizing. Turn the booster off, then the filter pump, and turn off the power. Take the drain plug out of the seal plate and drain the pump completely, then winterize the pipes. Freezing voids the warranty. Use only propylene glycol as antifreeze. Never blow the lines out with compressed air; use a high-volume blower under 5 PSI. Keep the motor dry and covered in storage, but don't wrap it in plastic, which traps condensation.

When it isn't working

• Motor won't start: check the wiring, relays, breakers and fuses. Turn the motor shaft by hand to see it moves freely, and check the timer or bypass it.
• Motor shuts off: usually low voltage, often from undersized wiring or an extension cord. The thermal overload cuts the motor out before it overheats and restarts it once it cools, and it keeps cycling until the cause is fixed.
• Motor hums but won't start: an impeller jammed with debris. Hayward says to have a qualified professional open the pump.
• Low flow: a clogged suction line, undersized piping, a dirty filter or a partly closed valve, an air leak on the suction side, or a plugged or damaged impeller.
• Noisy: air in the suction side, a restricted suction line, a low pool level or unrestricted returns; loose mounting; debris in the pump housing; or worn motor bearings. Bearings often go because a leaking seal let water in, which is why Hayward says to replace leaking seals at once.

Replacing the shaft seal

Hayward says only qualified people should do this. With the power off:

1. Remove the eight screws holding the volute to the seal plate, and slide the motor out, exposing the impeller.
2. Take off the motor canopy, hold the shaft with a 7/16 inch wrench on its flats, and unscrew the impeller counterclockwise.
3. Remove the four motor bolts with a 9/16 inch wrench, take off the seal plate and the spring seal, and press the old ceramic seat out.
4. Clean everything, and lubricate the shaft and seal recess with a mild solution of liquid soap. Press the new ceramic seat in, polished face out.
5. Refit the seal plate. Slide the spring seal onto the shaft, black polished face toward the ceramic, and screw the impeller back on clockwise, snug.
6. Refit the canopy and slide the motor back into the volute with its o-ring in place and lubricated. Tighten the eight screws alternately and evenly to 70 inch-pounds.

Both seal faces scratch easily, so handle them with care, and wipe them only with a soft cotton cloth.

Warranty and where to buy

The HSP30060 gets 3 years parts and 1 year labor from a pool store, and a Hayward Rewards dealer can extend the labor to 2 years. The W36060 gets 1 year parts, no labor. Seals and o-rings are wear items, covered only for manufacturing defects. Keep the receipt; Hayward's warranty only covers products from Hayward or an authorized seller.

Where Hayward's documents disagree, or are unclear

• Which pump the manual is for. Both product pages link the 2016 manual for the model 6060. It lists an open, non-TEFC 3/4 HP motor, SPX2707Z1B, rated 1.25 total horsepower. The Booster Pump 300 has a TEFC motor rated 1.1.
• Current draw. The only amp figures Hayward publishes are that manual's: 13.3 A at 115 V and 6.9 to 6.8 A at 208 to 230 V, with a 20 A breaker on 115 V and a 10 A breaker on 230 V. They were written for the older motor.
• The W36060's motor. Its product page says TEFC, but its related parts show the open SPX2707Z1B. The HSP30060's page shows the TEFC SPX2707Z1BT, and Hayward's online diagram for both models lists both motors.
• The motor's size. The online parts diagram calls SPX2707Z1BT a 3/4 HP motor. Its own part page calls it 1 HP. The 2026 price schedule lists the W36060 as a 3/4 HP booster, and its product page as 1.1 HP.
• Warranty. The manual says 1 year. The HSP30060 product page says 3 years parts and 1 year labor. The sell sheet mentions a "2-year extended warranty" in one place and "3 years" in its table.
• Electricity savings. The manual says up to 40% less than competing boosters. The sell sheet says up to 35%.
• The W36060's description. It repeats the Booster Pump 300's text, hose kit and 2-year extended warranty included, while its specification table says 1 year parts and lists no hose kit. Its performance curve link opens the Super Pump's curves.
• Part numbering. The manual numbers the seal plate o-ring 5 and the shaft seal 6; the online diagram swaps them. The manual lists one motor bolt, SPX3200Z5; the online diagram lists a 4-pack. The manual mentions "6060UB" hose barb fittings, which appear nowhere in its own parts list.
• The seal. Both the manual and the online diagram give the shaft seal as SPX2700SA. Hayward's website has no page for that number, only for a Viton version, SPX2700SAV, and doesn't say whether one replaces the other.